Japanese selvedge chambray shirt with Mandarin collar

Japanese selvedge chambray

An ancient craft (loom)

What makes Japanese chambray special is the loom on which it is woven. Slower and less symmetrical, these old machines, dating from before the 1960s, have been replaced everywhere else in the world by more efficient industrial machines with lower manufacturing costs. However, it is this slight asymmetry and slowness that will bring the raw texture so characteristic to Japanese chambray. Woven in plain weave with an ecru thread and an indigo thread, the result gives a slightly mottled effect between blue and gray tones depending on the light.

As for the selvedge, it corresponds to the translation of the term "self edge" meaning finished edge. It's a finish at the edge of a fabric that "closes" it to prevent it from fraying - and falling apart. This closure is reinforced by a colored edge - traditionally red - which allows it to retain its own identity. This characteristic edge discreetly runs along the buttonhole of our Japanese chambray shirt and can be seen just below the collar. On any other shirt, it would be just a detail, here, it's a real quality label of an authentic fabric.

Did you say "workwear"?

The workwear style is translated from English and simply means "work clothes". It is largely inspired by the world of work in the United States in the 19th century, between cowboys and lumberjacks. It was at the end of World War II that American soldiers straight from Uncle Sam's country put Japan under American influence. In their suitcases, they imported the American Way of Life including the famous denim jeans and selvedge. Japan then faced an impressive increase in the demand for jeans, while including traditional Japanese culture in the manufacturing of the pieces.

A well-crafted work shirt

One question remains: what about shirts in all this? As you've understood, the workwear style will not only be limited to denim pants but will gradually inspire other pieces such as work jackets, denim jackets, boots, and shirts. For the latter, the raw aspect is favored, with typical materials and weaves such as flannel or chambray, which are generally worn in autumn or winter. And yes, you need to be warm enough when working outside! A workwear shirt must be resistant - thanks to an adequate weave - and comfortable - to be at ease. Chambray being less rigid than denim, it's the ideal fabric to make a shirt with character, structured and flexible.

Characteristic details

Red selvedge edge

This characteristic red selvedge was mainly applied towards the end of the 19th century, where jean manufacturers distinguished themselves with a specific selvedge color. As a nod to the iconic selvedge of selvedge jeans, we opted for a discreet red selvedge - on a beige background - inside the American placket of our Japanese chambray shirt.

American placket and eco-friendly buttons

In technical jargon, the placket of a shirt corresponds to the left part of the shirt front, which will overlap the buttonhole. Basically, the part with the holes. There are three types: simple, hidden, and American. On a shirt with a simple placket, there is no topstitching, for a clean look and zero distraction when wearing a tie. That's why this placket is usually found on a formal shirt. The hidden placket can be casual or chic, thus making a casual shirt more refined or a formal shirt more original. For this Japanese chambray shirt, we chose the American placket. Topstitched, it harmonizes perfectly with the workwear style and displays the eco-friendly plant-based resin buttons with a pearlescent effect.

A military... and Chinese history

To delve into the history of the Mao collar, we need to take a look at Japan's neighbor: China. In the 1950s, Chinese military leader Mao Zedong - or Mao Tse-tung - widely popularized this collar and wore only it during his public appearances. As an anecdote, at the same time, he banned qipaos, traditional Chinese dresses, adorned with this short collar. The Mao collar was thus worn on military jackets, making it essential for the Chinese population. This iconic collar quickly exported to France thanks to the famous fashion designer Pierre Cardin who topped his suits with a Mao collar.

A minimalist collar with a casual-chic style

Minimalist and modern, the Mao collar has many advantages! Thanks to its small collar stand, it is worn without neck accessories, neither tie nor bow tie. A Mao collar shirt will then have its place in a casual chic outfit, thanks to its somewhat nonchalant side. The Japanese chambray shirt with Mao collar will blend harmoniously into a casual outfit, with chinos and sneakers on the feet.

Kevin tested it for you

We entrusted our shirt to the care of Kevin Ragonneau who was able to test and analyze it thoroughly!

- "It's a model that's made from a Japanese chambray. A fabric that gives it a really nice textured finish."

- "This new model follows a workwear inspiration, which offers a wide range of outfits that will go with it. For me, it's fully part of my everyday wardrobe. I've already more than adopted it! Just yesterday, working during the day and then in the evening at the Olympia for a concert, it's the shirt I was wearing and it was perfect."