24 juin 2016

Focus on suits

History of the suit

The two-piece suit first appeared in the 17th century. It is a set of two articles of clothing: a jacket and trousers sewn from the same material. After times of doublets and leotards, the "modern-day" suit appeared in the 19th century.

Are you meticulous and looking for a refined suit?

The three-piece suit is very elegant and its "vintage" look is enticing for all men. The latter sets you apart and marks you as an original. The three-piece reflects an incontestable confidence and highlights the real you. However, certain rules must be followed in order to properly wear this ensemble. Try the three-piece suit; its long-lasting charm will not disappoint. It consists of a jacket, trouser, and vest in the same fabric. The latter also appeared towards the end of the 17th century in Great Britain.

Once your shirt is on, tie your ties, gentlemen. The latter is required if you opt for a three-piece suit.

  • The vest is worn close to the body to accentuate your figure and heighten your appearance. When buttoned, the vest should also be long enough to cover the top of your trousers and to avoid a glimpse of your shirt. It is difficult to incorporate a belt between a vest and trousers: use suspenders instead. Not to worry! It will not in any way make you look too casual. Note also that the absence of a belt elongates your figure.

Gentlemen, let the tops of your vest and shirt show! Lightening up your figure is essential for avoiding a superimposition of layers and highlights every component of your suit. Double-breasted or straight, never button the last button of your vest to make it more becoming. If you opt for a double-breasted vest, choose a straight jacket. A double-breasted jacket will hide your vest.  

Suit construction

But what exactly is interfacing? A piece of fabric between the facing fabric and lining of a suit; the way of arranging these layers of fabric is known as "interfacing". The way the fabric falls and the shape of the suit will be slightly different depending on the type of interfacing.

SUITS

QUALITY

DURABILITY

PRICE

TRADITIONAL CONSTRUCTION

Traditional or "full canvas" construction is made from materials such as linen or cotton and reinforced with rigid fabrics (usually horsehair). The shirtfront remains uninhibited as it is entirely supported by the stitching on the shoulders and armholes.  

The rigidity of the horsehair gives the suit a better style and allows it to fall better; it moulds to the shape of its wearer, which makes the suit even more flattering as it will perfectly hug the body.

Traditional construction will resist traditional dry-cleaning methods (iron and steam).

An attention to detail and qualifications are necessary for this construction which requires the artisan to devote many hours to the creation of a single suit.                 >€1000

HOT-MELT

The fabric is covered in resin and then hot-glued. This is the easiest technique.
Unlike traditional construction, hot-melt does not use horsehair. The first hot-melt suits appeared in the 60s.

The fabric used in hot-melt interfacing is less rigid than in traditional interfacing. The resin on top dries out and hardens, thus making the suit less comfortable. The suit is known to crumple more quickly, leaving behind creases. Only an iron will remove them.

Made with resin, hot-melt is very sensitive to chemical products and heat. Dry-cleaning, flatiron and other methods of cleaning slowly remove the hot-melted fabric and create bubbles visible to the naked eye. The life span does not exceed 5 years.  

Hot-melt is easy to do and requires little expertise (hot-melt is done by machine). Therefore, the manufacturing does not cost a lot and is mass-produced (saves time). €300-400

SEMI-TRADITIONAL CONSTRUCTION
As can be seen, it is the middle ground between hot-melt and traditional interfacing. The bottom of the jacket is generally hot-melt and the shirtfront and back canvas-bound. The lifespan of the suit, the style, and shape of the shirtfront are guaranteed.

The top of the jacket (the shirtfront) is canvas-bound for better suppleness and a good drape on the shoulders.

A semi-traditional can last almost as long as full interfacing: between 10 and 15 years depending on the quality of garment care and the frequency with which you wear the suit.

A balance is struck between durability and price. More accessible than a hot-melt, but slightly lesser quality than a full canvas, expect to pay a minimum of €300 for semi-traditional interfacing.

The The Nines suit: a semi-traditional clothing manufacture

If you love good deals, manufactured suits with semi-traditional construction are for you. The reason is simple: hot-melt costs less and the shirtfront is the most important part of a suit, since this is where how well the suit falls is determined. Keep in mind that the bottom of the jacket is generally hot-melt, but the shirtfront and back is stitched by hand, otherwise known as full canvas. This translates to a draping front, synonymous with a high-end suit. Semi-traditional construction ensures suppleness, ease of movement, and undeniable wellbeing. Semi-traditional interfacing thus allows you to have suits of excellent quality at a lower price. Expect to nonetheless pay a minimum of €300 for a ready-to-wear suit. Meticulous and thorough care on your part will ensure that your suit will have the same lifespan as a suit with traditional interfacing. In conclusion, semi-traditional construction guarantees excellent quality, longevity worthy of a hand-stitched full canvas, and incomparable comfort.

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