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Ties: A spectacular metamorphosis since the twenties

4 November 2015

An ancestral fashion accessory, the tie was born in the seventeenth century in Croatia. At first worn by Croatian soldiers, it went on to become an iconic fashion accessory of male vanity. Narrow, wide, patterned, knitted ties or in leather, the tie has evolved since the 20s. How to explain this metamorphosis? From an identifying symbol to a means of self-expression, discover the tie in all its forms! In the 20s, the tie was a way to denote a social membership and was the most visible symbol of the bourgeoisie. In England, the patterns allowed people to distinguish different regiments from each other.

cravate-années-20

Each brigade had a colour that belonged to it and appeared in the form of stripes. Reserved for an elite, the first club or regimental ties were exclusively for students of the universities or the most prestigious British organisations.

cravate-ivy

Marked by the Art Deco movement, the 30s made room for more imaginative things. Thus there appeared ties with Paisley motifs, or in cashmere, with polka dots or a geometric motif! During the 40s, ties were not subject to any dramatic transformation. Overwhelmed by the Second World War, the world cared little about fashion and design. After the Second World War, ties reflected a desire to break with the prewar codes but also to move on from a difficult period. So men opted for ties with the most daring and colourful patterns. The designers made use of new materials and forms such as leather, wool ties and square ends. Always with a view to making a break with the past, ties became longer and much wider, reaching 130 cm in length and 13 cm in width. Make way for the bold look!

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Inspired by Pop Art, creators designed ever increasingly exuberant ties during the 60s. While many predicted the death of the tie, considered as the symbol of a detestable bourgeoisie by hippies and revolutionaries, an anonymous tie-maker offered narrow leather ties with square ends. The fashion for ties was revived!

cravate-1968  

In the 80s, wide neckties became popular again. Ties then measured up to 9 cm in width. In the early 90s, little animals found their way on to all the ties of the great fashion houses like Gucci or Hermès. Though the customers were hesitant for a while, these motifs were a great success later.

cravates-1980

Humorous motifs also appeared with the aim of establishing a certain conviviality or conversation. There were banknotes, skulls or Christmas trees ... The Americans called them "conversational ties". Ties were definitely a new way to express yourself. Today, ties are available in several widths, patterns and materials. Your tie is thus the ideal accessory to express your own style. Though the standard tie varies between 7 and 8 cm wide, slim ties are making a big comeback. Honoré de Balzac already saw it this way: 

"The tie is not only a useful safeguard against colds, stiff neck, inflammations, toothache and other similar niceties; it is also an essential and required part of an outfit, which in its various forms, lets you get to know the wearer."