Which shirt collar to wear in summer?

Wearing a fine shirt in summer is one thing. Wearing it with the right collar is even better. Often overlooked in favour of the fabric or the cut, the collar is nonetheless one of the details that makes all the difference: it frames the face, structures the silhouette and sets the tone of your outfit. Here is The Nines' complete guide to choosing the ideal shirt collar in summer.

Why is the shirt collar so important in summer?

The collar is the first thing you notice on a shirt. It speaks first, even before the fabric or the cut. At a glance, it betrays the level of formality of an outfit, balances (or unbalances) a silhouette, and influences the visual harmony between the face and the upper body.

It can elongate a short neck, broaden narrow shoulders, or conversely refine and open up a dense look. In summer, this question takes on an added dimension: you need to find the balance between lightness and structure, between the desire to dress down and the desire to remain elegant. The right collar allows you to navigate between these two requirements without compromise.

The essential shirt collars for summer

The spread collar: classic elegance

The spread collar is the shirt collar par excellence. It is characterised by a moderate opening, short to medium points and a standard height that neatly structures the neckline. It is the collar of the suit, the office, the client meeting, but also the one worn open, without a tie, with beige chinos and loafers on a Saturday evening.

Its versatility makes it a summer essential: it adapts equally well to a summer ceremony and a terrace lunch, provided you play with the fabric. In cotton poplin or light linen, it gains in breathability without losing any of its elegance.

Ideal for: the office, smart casual, summer ceremonies.

The Italian collar: relaxed elegance

The Italian collar is distinguished by its longer and above all more spread points, which give it a naturally open and modern look. It is designed to be worn without a tie: the V it creates in the neckline is precisely its main selling point.

In summer, it excels: it enhances a tan, visually lightens the upper body and gives any outfit a note of effortless nonchalance. Paired with a linen suit for a wedding or a terrace dinner, it is unbeatable.

Ideal for: casual chic without a tie, dinners, summer events.

The button-down collar: deliberate casual

Originating from the American preppy tradition, the button-down collar is recognisable by its points fastened with small buttons on the placket. The result: a collar that never gaps, a deliberately casual look and a style that unapologetically embraces its casual side.

It is the collar of weekends, outings with friends, strolls around town. It is worn with the shirt untucked, sleeves rolled up to the elbow, never with a tie. In light chambray or summer oxford, it is a reliable choice for all the informal moments of summer.

Ideal for: weekends, casual outings, relaxed looks.

The Mao collar (officer collar): the modern minimalist

Without points or lapels, the Mao collar (also known as the officer collar or mandarin collar) is the collar of choice for those who want to break free from classic dress codes. Straight, clean and understated, it gives the shirt a contemporary look that sits somewhere between casual and dressed-up.

In summer, it wins over with its visual lightness and its on-trend appeal. It works equally well with straight trousers or light chinos, and is always worn open — forget the tie. It is the collar for minimalist silhouettes and summer looks that embrace a clean aesthetic.

Ideal for: minimalist looks, on-trend evenings, clean-lined silhouettes.

The reverse collar: nonchalant elegance

Less well known, the reverse collar is nonetheless one of the most appealing options for summer. Its principle: the lapels are folded inward, creating a collar-free effect that gives the impression of a collarless shirt while retaining structure. The result is one of nonchalant elegance, perfectly suited to summer.

It works equally well with a light suit as with simple chinos, and requires no accessories. It is the collar of the man who knows how to dress without looking like he is trying.

Ideal for: smart casual evenings, dressed-up looks without a tie, summer in general.

Which collar to choose for a summer occasion?

No need to overthink it: here is a quick reference guide for choosing the right collar depending on the context.

• Office / client meeting: spread collar or Italian collar
• Wedding or formal dinner: spread collar with a slim tie, or Italian collar with a linen suit
• Weekend / terrace: button-down collar or Mao collar
• Smart casual evening: reverse collar or open Italian collar

Which collar suits your body type?

Choosing the right collar is not just about context — it also takes your body type into account. A few useful reference points:

• Short neck: avoid high collars that would further shorten it. Opt for the Italian collar with spread points, which creates an elongating effect thanks to the V-shaped opening.
• Long neck: the spread collar or any collar with a slightly more pronounced height will balance the silhouette without weighing it down.
• Round face: opt for collars with long, close-set points, which visually elongate the face.
• Broad shoulders: the classic spread collar, neither too open nor too narrow, offers a natural balance without accentuating the width.

The best fabrics to pair with each collar in summer

The collar is not everything: fabric plays an essential role in summer comfort. Here are the best pairings:

• Linen: goes with all collars. Maximum lightness and breathability, perfect for hot days.
• Light cotton / poplin: ideal with the spread collar and the Italian collar. Fabric fineness and collar hold guaranteed.
• Oxford or chambray: the natural companions of the button-down collar. Slightly more textured, very summery in spirit.
• Cotton voile: paired with the Mao collar or the reverse collar, it amplifies the clean, airy effect of these styles.

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