Italian collar, spread collar or Mao collar: which to choose in summer?

Why the collar changes everything in summer

When it comes to men's shirts, the collar is far more than a simple cut detail: it is the first element that catches the eye, the one that structures the neckline and sets the tone for an entire outfit. In summer, it plays an even more decisive role. Worn open, without a tie, sometimes without a jacket, it becomes the centrepiece of a look, also determining thermal comfort, breathability and the fluidity of the garment against the skin.

Among all the collars available, three regularly appear in the summer wardrobes of style-conscious men: the Italian collar, the spread collar and the Mao collar. Three aesthetics, three levels of formality, three ways of approaching the summer shirt. But how do you tell them apart? And above all, which one to choose according to your style, your occasions and your body type?

The Nines offers you a complete comparison to help you make the right choice.

The Italian collar: relaxed elegance

The Italian collar is immediately recognisable by its long and widely spread points, with a pronounced opening on the chest. Designed to be worn open, often without the collar button and even without the second button, it embodies a relaxed elegance that perfectly captures the spirit of summer.

There is no point trying to structure it with a tie: the Italian collar is not made for that. It flourishes naturally, allowing the shirt to breathe and the silhouette to relax. That is precisely what makes it an essential for the warm season.

Ideal occasions:

• Terrace, drinks with friends, dinner in town
• Casual chic or semi-formal evening
• Smart weekend in the countryside or by the sea

Recommended fabrics: lightweight cotton, linen, fine poplin: fabrics that drape well when open and do not crumple.

Who it suits: worn open, the Italian collar visually elongates the silhouette and structures the neckline. It suits most body types, with a particular mention for shorter necks, which it slims elegantly.

The spread collar: classic elegance revisited

The spread collar is the shirt collar par excellence. With its straight and moderately spread points, it offers a traditional and polished look that transcends seasons and trends. In summer, it reinvents itself: worn open, without a tie, it reveals a sober and timeless elegance, far from any stiffness.

It is the most versatile collar in this comparison. It accommodates a fine tie for a professional appointment as well as an unbuttoned collar for a terrace lunch. In linen or cotton voile, it takes on a light and summery character while retaining its natural distinction.

Ideal occasions:

• Office, client meeting, professional appointment in smart casual attire
• Daytime wedding, cocktail
• Brunch or elegant lunch

Recommended fabrics: fine poplin, cotton voile, linen-cotton blend: structured fabrics that preserve the shape of the collar throughout the day.

Who it suits: everyone. The spread collar adapts to all neck shapes and body types. It is the zero-risk collar, ideal if you are still undecided.

The Mao collar (officer collar): the modern minimalist

The Mao collar, also known as the officer collar or Nehru collar, stands in stark contrast to the previous two. No lapel, no points, no visible collar button: just a straight band of fabric that encircles the neckline and draws a clean, almost architectural line.

Inspired by Asian tunics and reimagined by contemporary fashion, the Mao collar is the choice of men who embrace a minimalist and modern style. In summer, worn with structured trousers or light chinos, it creates light and impeccably controlled silhouettes.

Ideal occasions:

• Casual chic weekend look
• City break, terrace dinner
• Creative event, vernissage, cultural outing

Recommended fabrics: linen, lightweight cotton, voile: fluid fabrics that accentuate the natural lightness of this collar.

Who it suits: those who embrace a confident and refined style. The Mao collar works particularly well on slim silhouettes, but also looks great in a straight cut for a more relaxed result.

Quick comparison: Italian collar vs spread collar vs Mao collar

Italian collar: semi-formal, never worn with a tie — ideal without a tie. Perfect for evenings, the terrace and the weekend. It elongates and structures the neckline, with a relaxed and elegant spirit.

Spread collar: between formal and semi-formal, it accommodates a tie as well as an open collar. Suited to the office, a wedding or a polished smart casual look. Its universal shape suits all body types, for a classic and timeless result.

Mao collar: casual chic by nature, always worn without a tie. Ideal for a city break or a relaxed dinner, it adapts particularly well to slim or straight silhouettes, with a minimalist and modern spirit.

How to choose your collar according to the occasion in summer?

The right collar is above all the one that matches the context in which you are wearing your shirt. Here are a few guidelines to ensure you never go wrong:

At the office or in a client meeting, opt for a spread collar with a polished poplin, or an Italian collar on a structured shirt if the dress code is more relaxed.

At the weekend or on a terrace, the linen Mao collar or the wide-open Italian collar are your best allies for staying stylish effortlessly.

For a wedding or an elegant evening, the spread collar is the obvious choice, with or without a tie depending on the dress code. For a countryside or bohemian wedding, the Italian collar can also work very well.

While travelling or on a city break, favour the linen Mao collar for its lightness, its ease of care and its impeccable look even after a few hours in a suitcase.

The Nines shirts for each collar type

The Nines offers a selection of shirts designed to showcase each collar type, with particular attention to the details that make the difference.

Whether you opt for an Italian collar with generous points, a spread collar with clean lines or a Mao collar with minimalist simplicity, you will find consistent quality standards on every model:

• Collar interlining carefully selected to guarantee a perfect hold throughout the day, even in the heat
• Mother-of-pearl buttons hand-sewn, for an elegant finish that stands the test of time
• Clean and even seams, a sign of controlled craftsmanship that preserves the shape of the collar through repeated washing

In terms of fit, The Nines offers its shirts in a slim cut for structured silhouettes wishing to accentuate their line, and in a straight cut for greater freedom of movement, particularly appreciated in summer. Both cuts pair well with all three collar types, depending on the desired effect.

Discover our spread collar shirts and our guide to choosing your shirt collar.

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