15 avril 2019
In order to offer you comfortable, high-quality shirts in fits that cater to your body shape, our The Nines team is on the quest for the best fabrics and garment workshops; we've created a list of specifications that we reveal below.
A quality shirt is characterised first and foremost by its fabric. We mainly select fabrics made by major Italian brands (Albini, Monti, Albiate), most of which are two-ply; particular attention has been paid to their opacity, the fineness of their weave and their durability. Our fabrics contain all natural fibres (cotton, linen or lyocell), which is an essential component when it comes to offering you a perfectly comfortable fit. Our shirts are carefully crafted and produced in Eastern Europe. Our partner workshop works in collaboration with the largest fashion brands. This workshop stresses valuable expertise and increased quality control so that your shirts are of undeniably high quality, from top to bottom.
We want our level of quality to be seen even in the smallest details of our shirts. One sign of this is in the type of seams we've selected. French seams, or "invisible seams", have no fabric edge and only one single seam is visible, since the second is located inside the shirt. A first row of pins is positioned with the shirt inside out (i.e. on the inside of the shirt) while a second row is put into place on the outside. Accordingly, the assembly is very fine and is characterised by a slight texture along the edge of the fabric. This sewing technique is becoming increasingly rare and is a sign of manufacturing quality. Specifically, it gives clothes a more handcrafted, less crude look. Our French seams (6 points per centimetre) form one line of impeccable stitching and give the shirt more elegance and stability. French seams are harder to make, but they're an undeniable sign of quality and long life.
Our shirts include removable stainless steel collar stays in a strong and rigid material. These aren't accessories for keeping the shirt in shape like the pins or cardboard in a new shirt; they're essential elements that give your collar an irreproachable hold. If you remove them, you risk destroying your collar and losing all the benefits of a nice shirt.
Our shirts are more resistant thanks to the use of pentagonal hem gussets (which make it possible to reinforce the joint between the front and back sides of the shirt) sewn on each side. The shape used for our hem gussets is more subtle than triangular hem gussets and allows for a cleaner cutting job.
Fusing is a technique that involves adhering hot reinforcements ("interfacing") onto certain parts of clothing (front, collar, cuffs, etc.). The bond, courtesy of Wendler and chosen in accordance with each fabric, is a canvas on which you place an adhesive base that reacts to the heat of an iron. There are different thicknesses depending on the materials used or personal needs. Our collars and cuffs, especially our French cuffs, are fused to ensure a long, flawless hold. The 5mm seams on our collars are also very tight. Finally, the two folds that rise up along the outside of the French cuff allow you to stay elegant and impeccable at any angle.
We chose buttons made of Troca mother-of-pearl. The latter is a shellfish living mainly off New Caledonia. This very pure mother-of-pearl can nonetheless have some irregularities and imperfections. We always pay attention to the smallest details; that's why our buttons are sewn in the shape of a cross with the help of a secure fastener known as "Ascolite". This technique involves turning the thread around the button several times so that it is more resistant, tight and resilient. Our buttons are assembled on a slightly raised dovetail with a very sturdy stem so you can button up your shirt with greater ease. In addition, the last buttonhole is sewn horizontally, which gives it strength and reduces tension on the seams when the shirt is tucked into your trousers.
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