Our
Suits and jackets

WHAT EASTERN AND WESTERN EUROPE HAVE IN COMMON: A HALF-CANVAS CONSTRUCTION

• Location: Portugal and Romania
• First partnership: 2015
• Expertise: Construction and pattern

We entrust the production of our suits and jackets not to one but to two manufacturers, which are geographically located in exactly opposite directions: one in Romania and the other in Portugal. The former is responsible for the production of our suits: Implanted for more than 20 years in Romania's historic textile quarter, our suit maker is appreciated by the biggest brands for the valuable expertise of his tailors. Our jackets and blazers are made by our Portuguese atelier, relying on more than 50 years of experience in the field of sartorial menswear. Geographically opposed, our manufacturers however, have one thing in common: the expertise of high-quality patterns and finishes that matches those of the made-to-measure tailors. For clothing that looks as if it has been fresh from the tailor for years.

HOW TO RECOGNIZE A QUALITY SUIT JACKET

When looking for a good suit, whether it's for a special occasion or for everyday use, several quality criteria must be taken into account. Especially if you want to enjoy your suit for many years to come. First, the choice of fabric is of the utmost importance: looking at the composition label should therefore be your first step in your search for a high-quality suit. As with all other garments, natural materials are preferred: the best fit and comfort is achieved with a wool suit. Make no mistake: wool does not automatically mean a thick fabric that makes you sweat. You can also find very nice suits in cotton or linen, but the look is more casual and therefore better suited for summer events.

Then comes the "hidden side" of the suit, which you could also call the skeleton: the construction! The construction of a suit is what gives the jacket body, resistance and comfort - or not. There are three different types of construction in the way the jacket's canvas is incorporated between the outer fabric shell and the inner lining:

• Fused or glued: The inlay was attached to the fabric with a hot iron and glue. This is an inexpensive manufacturing technique, with a less natural drape and a shorter life span than the half-canvas or full-canvas construction.
• Half-Canvas or semi-traditional: A horsehair canvas is sewn between the fabric and the lining of the shoulder and chest areas, giving the jacket more flexibility and a natural drape. The less stressed lower part of the jacket is glued. This is the ideal compromise between the two constructions and our choice for our suits and blazers.
• Full canvas or traditional: the horsehair canvas is sewn from top to bottom, with no glue being used. Such a traditional construction is much more labour-intensive, which is why it is more expensive to make.

Finally, you should not miss taking other details under close observation such as the shoulder design, the lining and other refinements such as functional buttonholes, piped pockets or horn buttons. Voilà, you now have all the cards in your hand to choose a high-quality suit!